The Young Guns

The gen next of Indian-origin gem & jewellery enterprises
The Young Guns

One of the characteristics that comes to mind when one thinks about the gems and jewellery industry, is traditional. Being mostly a family business in the hands of the few, the industry is almost shut tight for outsiders. Corporatisation is just a jargon in this industry, some say. But, times are now changing swiftly. The next gen of the gems and jewellery industry has come into power and they are bringing with them new innovations, technologies and the new-age edge to the otherwise traditional industry. In the cover story this month, we talked to 11 such young turks that are taking the industry by storm. Being born into the business, these young guns are almost brought up amongst the diamonds, coloured gems and exquisite jewellery. Amalgamating the forefathers’ experience with contemporary concepts, they are starting bright, new chapters in the industry. Read on to know their views about the current state of the industry, their strategies to overcome hurdles and their opinions about various other issues affecting the industry. By Priyanka Desai and Kavita Parab. 1. Rishabh Tongya, 2. Sahil Shah, 3. Sunny Sakariya, 4. Rajesh Lakhani, 5. Harsh Maheshwari

Rishabh Tongya of Diacolor
As third generation manufacturers of diamonds and coloured stones, Diacolor is well established in the wholesale industry, both in India and across the globe. Foraying into retail, the Diacolor name became synonymous to luxury in the B2C space when the young turk, Rishabh Tongya paid heed to the inner artist in him. Fine jewellery is his personal passion and transforming passion into vocation, Rishabh has surely surpassed large expectations.

Current State
Our diamond manufacturing and export industry has played an important role in the country’s economic growth over the years. Although the last few months of 2014 have reported a dip in the export of polished diamonds due to liquidity crisis and sluggish demand from the diamond consuming nations like U.S., there are however numerous opportunities for growth with exploring newer markets like Russia, Middle East, etc. There has also been an increase in the domestic demand for diamonds over the past couple of years with the increasing share of the luxury market in the country. The overall outlook hence, for the years to come seems positive for the Indian diamond industry.

The hurdles faced by the diamond industry in India currently include a slow demand in the major export markets like the U.S. and the dwindling profit margins on polished diamonds.

Another reason hitting the industry is the beneficiation programme in Africa under which most African countries are setting up their own cutting and polishing units and outsourcing of rough diamonds to India and China are being discontinued Bankruptcy Reports in HK, A Worry Of course, this is certainly very sad news as banks would be scrutinising the consignee companies very strictly and would be hesitant to give export credit. Ebola Outbreak Impact Ever since the breakout of Ebola virus in the west African countries many diamantaires have stopped sourcing rough diamonds and halted their visit to these countries for the past couple of months.

This has somewhat affected the diamond industry as these African countries account for a substantial amount of the diamond production and would thereon create a shortage of rough diamonds. But, we haven’t returned any parcel coming in from Africa.

The Modi Effect
We really expect PM Modi to bring in a flat turnover tax for smoother day-today operations. Also, we expect him to lessen the restrictions and encourage the industry.

High Diamond Prices
Diamond manufacturers have high costs and of course they would also want to maximize on the prices. Unless the producers reduce the charges, they would pretty much remain high.

Strategies to Overcome Hurdles
To overcome the hurdles that the industry is experiencing, we try to not indulge in overtrading. Other than that it is important to deal in businesses with margins and explore new markets and better avenues.

Toughest Period
A switch from B2B business to retail is somewhat challenging to begin with. An important part of retail is to educate your consumer in a much simpler language as compared to a B2B set-up where certain jargons, terms and products are relatable to a majority of consumers. Another difference being that while purchases in a B2B transaction are more driven by rationale, retail consumers tend to be more emotionally driven.

Love For Profession
In the time that I have spent in the luxury retail section, I have had the opportunity to meet and interact with some very nice people, it is my understanding that consumers looking at super luxury products value the product they buy and the experience of luxury is in the ownership of the product. It has hence made it possible for me to manufacture and offer some of the best jewels to our discerning clients.

Rapid Fire Round:
Favourite business book: ‘Getting to Yes’ by Roger Fisher and William Ury
Business mantra: ‘Cash is King’.
Role model/Mentor in business: My father.
If not a businessman then…: I would have been a philanthropist.
Idea of unwinding: Travelling

Sunny Sakariya of HVK Group
It was around more than 25 years ago that HVK Group as a company came into existence. After grabbing a strong foothold in the market due to meticulous manufacturing operation, HVK Group decided to step into end-to-end operations i.e. “rough to retail”. With the common goal of being the most competent company in the business, HVK Group has tackled the challenges involved both in manufacturing and then marketing the products. Sunny Sakariya, the young director has plans to take the company on even higher pedestals.

Current State
The current state of the Indian diamond industry is unexplainable as some companies are moving goods at low prices and booking loss, while some are holding their goods waiting for the scenario to change. The main issue at the current stage is the low demand from the retailers across the globe. Also, the price that our customers’ want is lower than our selling cost. But, it’s a phase and this too shall pass.

Bankruptcy Reports in HK, A Worry
The position, which the market is currently holding is full of rumours flying around. The reports that have come to us have not affected HVK at all. Talking about the industry, if the reports are verified as they claim to be, then the finance will decrease in the industry, which in turn is going to be bad for the industry.

Ebola Outbreak Impact
We haven’t faced the Ebola crisis in any form. None of our suppliers have reported anything serious. Hence, the question of returning the parcels from African regions doesn’t arise at all.

The Modi Effect
One man cannot solve every problem instantly but PM Modi, being a Gujarati; we believe that he has business in his genes. All the decisions made by him will be favorable to the economy of the country, individually and also as a whole.

IIJS 2014 Dampening
Whatever you have heard about the IIJS 2014 being slow this season is wrong. We at HVK had a busy exhibition compared to last year, but it was very simple, some companies were very busy while some were absolutely free. The scenario will remain similar till Diwali, but we expect the whole market to revive after that. Yet Prices High As I have mentioned before the manufacturers cannot sell below the cost of production and hence the business transaction cannot be done. Some transactions that do happen are based on compromise on some level or the other.

Strategies to Overcome Hurdles
The timing would be the important thing. What we buy and at what price, are going to play an important role. Faster cycles and low inventory is going to be the key in this market.

Toughest Period
It has been almost eight years since I have entered the business but till now I haven’t seen the time where I would feel that ‘this is a tough phase’. But, generally speaking last six months were really tough in terms of customers’ demands and miners’ prices.

Love For Profession
It’s a family business hence a strong support system has been in place, helping me to keep the aggression going. Apart from that I am into the diamond industry, which is a lot of bling bling, that’s always attractive.

Rapid Fire Round:
Favorite business book: Still not inspired by one
Business mantra: You receive what you put in
Role model/Mentor in business: My father
If not a businessman then: Would be an investment banker or a stock trader Idea of unwinding: Spending time with friends and travelling

Chaitanya Vanjara of Sunview NV
Sunview NV, established in 2007 in Antwerp, is a sister concern of Sur Gems, a family owned business incepted in 1971 with globally connected offices in Mumbai, New York, Tokyo and Dubai, complimented by world class manufacturing facilities based in Mumbai. Chaitanya Vanjara, Director of Sunview NV, has more than 15 years of experience in diamond manufacturing and grading.

Current State
The diamond industry is currently facing the uncertainties about the economic situation. The consumer confidence will continue to be a key issue and a challenge to the diamond industry. As everybody knows the year 2014 has been an exceptionally challenging year. It has been a roller coaster ride with patches of busy months of high demand which suddenly dropped towards the second half of the year. The slowing down of demands from Hong Kong, Mainland China as well as the U.S. and a liquidity crunch, which is felt across the industry, are two of the major hurdles we are currently facing.

Bankruptcy Reports in HK, A Worry
As we are aware, 30 per cent (by value) of the total exports of polished diamonds from India every year goes to Hong Kong and china. The recent bankruptcies definitely have a huge impact on the Indian diamond industry. Indian diamantaires, who supply polished diamonds are in a state of panic and will be more cautious towards future business. Due to the weak financial condition of some big jewellery companies in Hong Kong there are chances that the Indian diamond companies may face huge losses.

Ebola Outbreak Impact
The epidemic is causing Indian diamantaires to cancel their trips to the African countries. Sierra Leone, which is just one example exports about $220 million worth of diamonds every year and Angola which produces over a billion $ worth a year. As this source is currently inaccessible and workers in the region unavailable, to a certain extent do affect the Indian diamond industry as the input of rough is curtailed.

The Modi Effect
We have a lot of hope from the new Government. We believe that the new Government will give a new direction to the jewellery business. It might also reduce the import duty which will lead to increase in exports and thus there will be an increase in foreign exchange. Hence, we have high hopes from the strong new Government.

IIJS 2014 Dampening
The two major reasons according to me is the consumer confidence, which is a key issue and as well as the money crunch. We should see an increase in sales as we are near the festival season, Diwali in October and hopefully should carry on as we approach Christmas. Yet High Prices Because the industry is so bound by tradition, any disruption in the pipeline tends to spark concerns. Several such disruptions occurred in 2014, but we do not expect these events to have significant long-term impact. These small bumps in the road do nothing to dim the diamond industry’s longterm growth prospects. Retailers in India, China and U.S. are still pressing ahead with ambitious expansion plans, and the countries should remain a very attractive market for diamonds in the long term. The manufacturers have adjusted the prices to a small extent where deemed necessary as demands for certain products has weakened.

Strategies to Overcome Hurdles
In tough times, to be successful means knowing how to use your talent and resources to the best advantage. To withstand these hurdles we are steering our business through the turbulent environment by remaining liquid and not being leveraged or over exposed. Along with that we are also tapping on new evolving markets.

Toughest Period
The toughest phase I experienced over the past 15 years of being in the business is the crisis in 2008 where business came to a standstill with financial crisis all around and a total loss in consumer confidences as people lost money in all sectors. A luxurious product like diamonds was the least of interest for consumers.

Love For Profession
What I like most about our business is the fact that we are dealing in one of the most luxurious products in the world, which is a result of a long process from mine to retail. The process of creating a niche piece of jewellery is always exciting, as every rough diamond mined is different and it’s a constant process of creating something unique from a stone to a glitter on the finger. The international travel, exposure and association with people from all around the world in the process are also very exhilarating.

Rapid Fire Round:
Favorite business book: The Business of Belief by Tom Asacker
Business mantra: Beyond the ordinary Role model/Mentor in business: Sudhir Mehta
If not a businessman then…: I would have been a Banker
Idea of unwinding: A week at a spa resort in the Maldives

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