Now in its ninth edition, GemGenève, which is currently underway at Geneva’s Palexpo (May 8–11), has brought together around 250 exhibitors from 22 countries. This boutique-style tradeshow continues to attract a discerning mix of gemstone and antique jewellery dealers, contemporary designers, collectors, and connoisseurs from around the world.
The thematic focus of GemGenève 2025 is a celebration of the Art Deco movement, marking 100 years since the landmark 1925 Paris International Exhibition. Its centrepiece exhibition, “Art Deco: A Legacy of Timeless Elegance,” features museum-quality pieces that showcase the movement’s artistic energy and technical innovation. For Indian brands drawing from period aesthetics and architectural detail, the showcase offers a compelling lesson in blending heritage with market-savvy design.
Design, Dialogue, and Diversity
What distinguishes GemGenève is its balance between elite curation and democratic inclusion. Exhibitors range from gemstone titans like B&B Fine Gems (led by “gemfluencer”, Dave Bindra) to debut participants such as Bridges Tsavorite, whose legacy began with the discovery of the tsavorite garnet in Zimbabwe.
This year, GemGenève signals a deliberate shift toward greater representation and equity in the global jewellery conversation. A key example is the debut of the African Jewellery Week exhibition, developed in partnership with the Jewellery and Gemstone Association of Africa (JGAA). More than a showcase of materials, the exhibition centres on African design voices, challenging the long-standing narrative of the continent as merely a source of raw gemstones.
As Longo Mulaisho-Zinsner, Founder and President of Strategy at both JGAA and Africa Jewellery Week™ Limited, puts it: “As Africans, we live and walk on a rainbow beneath our feet, yet we are seemingly poor. This is not a poverty of natural resource but more a gap in exposure that, if realised, will take us from the now to being significant players in the global industry. We have the skills, creativity and talent to showcase. ‘It is All in Our Hands’.”
The Indian Connect: Jaipur’s Quiet Influence and Global Partnerships
India may not dominate the exhibitor list at GemGenève 2025, but its influence is unmistakable. A striking example is the collaboration between Jaipur’s Dharmendra Tank of Tank Fine Gems and emerging designer Clarisse Vittoz, who won the Eric Horovitz Foundation Award in 2022. Recognising her talent and the way she interpreted his stones, Tank invited Vittoz to his Jaipur workshop, where she trained in traditional lapidary techniques passed down through six generations of his family.
Supported by the Eric Horovitz Foundation, the mentorship became a cross-cultural exchange rooted in craft, heritage, and trust — a reminder that in the jewellery world, the stone is only the beginning; what matters is how it's brought to life.
The recipient of this year’s Eric Horovitz Foundation Award will be announced at the GemGenève awards ceremony on Sunday, 11 May.
Men’s Jewellery: A Market Awakening
Once a symbol of status and lineage, men’s jewellery is undergoing a quiet revolution—one rooted not in power but in personal expression. At this year’s GemGenève, the Designers’ Village shines a spotlight on this evolution, showcasing creators like Shavarsh Hakobian, Arman Suciyan, and Lucas Hage, whose work challenges outdated binaries and invites men to wear jewellery on their own terms. From brooches worn on hoodies to rings sculpted from unexpected materials, the pieces reflect a growing appetite for freedom, flair, and individuality.
“The emergence of jewellery for men is due to changes in how they themselves see jewellery,” notes co-founder Ronny Totah, pointing to a generation that sees adornment not as extravagance but as identity. Whether steeped in tradition or defiantly contemporary, the jewellery on display is designed to say something—not about status, but about self.
Education, Ethics and the Emerging Professional
One of GemGenève’s proudest achievements is its commitment to education and generational transfer of knowledge. The Métiers d’Art space and student-led showcases make space for dialogue between master craftsmen and young creators.
Meanwhile, the spotlight on traceability and ethics – as seen in Muzo Emerald Colombia’s vertically integrated mine-to-market model – presents an actionable roadmap for those eager to align with global sustainability benchmarks. Muzo’s blockchain-like tracking system and ISO 9001 certification redefine what it means to market a “responsibly sourced” stone.
What Indian Industry Stakeholders Should Watch Closely
· Men’s Jewellery – With a clear rise in designer focus, Indian brands can explore new masculine forms using traditional Indian craftsmanship.
· Heritage as a Selling Proposition – Exhibitions like Art Deco and the Faerber Collection reinforce that history sells – particularly when supported by craftsmanship and storytelling.
· Ethical Sourcing and Traceability – With increasing regulatory scrutiny in the West, Indian exporters must explore traceable and certified sourcing frameworks.
· African Partnerships – There is potential for Indo-African design collaborations, not just gem trade. India’s vast experience in artisanal production could support African talent development in a post-colonial, equitable model.
