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Where Design Rules
By: Diamond World News Service
Oct 27 2016 10:46AM
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Italy is renowned for its skilled craftsman, so it comes as no surprise that some of the world’s most beautiful and sought-after jewellery is created there. No country in the world, in fact, produces jewellery like Italy does. Whether hand-made or machine-made, jewellery makers produce an endless variety of pieces that combine superb artistry and craftsmanship. Italian designer jewellery offers outstanding craftsmanship and original design using the finest gemstones and precious metals. The Italian jewellery industry is composed of approximately 9,000 companies employing 32.000 people, mainly concentrated in four major geographical areas - Vicenza, Valenza, Arezzo, Campania Region - with a total turnover of more than €6 billion. Most of these are highly specialized small and medium sized companies, enjoying much diversified product base and very high goods to export all over the world.

Italy today is still one of the top players in the world of fashion and design and very much for jewellery production too.

    Current situation:
According to a report by Euromonitor, low consumer confidence continued to impact jewellery sales in 2016 and led to a cautious approach to nonessential spending. However, consumers still looked to treat themselves, which led to increasing demand for accessible luxury, as well as for economy references in costume jewellery. Accessible luxury refers to jewellery which crosses the border between costume and real jewellery, and mixes precious with non-precious materials, emphasising the design and craft. The manufacturers of some real jewellery collections, such as Pomellato 67 and Damiani D-Icon collections, have invested in accessible jewellery, which is also helping to contribute to an increase in sales of this niche.

Competitive landscape
Pomellato continued to lead jewellery in Italy in 2015, holding a 6 per cent value share. The company operates in real jewellery, and was a pioneer in the concept of prêt-à-porter jewellery, becoming particularly well-known for its use of coloured stones. In Italy, Pomellato is present with its Pomellato and Dodo chains; the latter targeting a younger audience. In 2013 the company was acquired by French multinational holding group Kering, which offers a large range of luxury brands, including Gucci, Saint Laurent Paris and Sergei Rossi.

Trade Fairs
VicenzaOro is the most important jewellery trade fair in Italy. Vicenza is the second big area in Italy that is famous for jewellery production which comprises of smaller and larger companies, often factories, with a larger production than Valenza Po. There are not many high end jewellers here, even though there some very famous ones also. VicenzaOro is a showcase of chiefly Italian jewellery producers with around 1500 booths.

Update and news
Birmingham-based trade show Jewellery & Watch has announced Italy as its country of focus for next year’s event. Italy has a thriving jewellery industry and makes a great choice for Jewellery & Watch to have as its international focus for 2017. Since Jewellery & Watch became a stand-alone brand (co-located with Spring Fair) the organisation has worked with some of the leading Italian jewellery brands such as; Roberto Coin, Fope, Blue White Group, Chimento, Nomination and Rebecca. Italian brands confirmed to exhibit next year include Rebecca, Nomination, Lebole, Ferrara Gife Gioielli, Ferrarese, Moraglione, Le Carose and B*YOU. The next edition of Jewellery & Watch takes place 5–9 February 2017.

Prospects In the year 2014, Italy’s $8 billion jewellery industry is drawing interest from Asian and Middle East investors, keen to exploit Italian style and design as they battle for market share both at home and abroad. Once the world’s top exporter of jewellery, Italy now has fierce competition from India, China and Turkey where costs are lower and quality is gradually improving to internationally marketable standards. According to data from Italian goldsmiths association Federorafi, the sector has slumped 28 percent since 2001 to 9,000 firms — most of which are small family-owned companies unable to compete in a global market.

According to Euromonitor, currently jewellery is expected to be characterised by an increasing polarisation of demand, which will benefit both low-end and high-end jewellery at the expense of mid-priced references. Within costume jewellery this trend will translate into increasing demand for economy brands, such as OpsObjects, which witnessed impressive growth over the review period, as well as highend bijoux and jewellery mixing precious and non-precious metals and stones. Meanwhile, real jewellery is expected to continue to be strongly impacted by the trend towards affordable luxury. However, as real jewellery will continue to be perceived as an aspirational accessory, the best way to capitalise on this trend by manufacturers will be to invest in brand identity and marketing, besides design and innovation.

Top 10 Italian Jewellery
Designers and Brands The Italian design is world renown for glamour and style. Italian designer jewellery is a typical example of how craftsmanship and luxury materials marry to create unique and glamorous pieces of wearable art. There are many reasons to own a piece of Italian designer jewellery. One thing is for sure: Italian designer jewellery consists of unique and stylish pieces to wear and enjoy. According Ebay, the lists consists of

This Italian designer works in Italy’s creative heart, Milan. Pomellato originates from the 1960s and pays scant regard to the traditional rules of jewellery design. Instead, its rings, bracelets, earrings, and pendants are a joyous celebration of individual gemstones. The brand prides itself on stylistic freedom, which means creating unconventional pieces that the designer likens to true emotion, unique and personal to the individual.

Roberto Cavalli
The name behind the brand, Roberto Cavalli, was born in Florence, Italy, to artistic parents. His roots in the creative arts serve as a strong influence in his designs. Fans of his work describe Cavalli as the master of opulence for his flamboyant style and exotic designs. Cavalli jewellery reflects this flair for the exotic with on-trend, quirky designs that aim to complement, rather than overpower, the wearer.

The Versace brand creates an image of fashion, glamour, and sexiness. The famous Medusa head logo represents Versace’s belief in empowering women, and the mythical theme is a common one running through the jewellery. A typical Versace piece is a stylish, unfussy chunk of precious metal that makes a bold statement about the wearer.

Armani’s reputation is for relaxed elegance that is easy to wear. The uncluttered lines and lack of fussiness speak of the wearer’s underlying selfconfidence. Armani jewellery is timeless.

Bulgari pieces aim to express Italian femininity. Not only does Bulgari jewellery complement the feminine form, but the elegant, classically inspired designs feel great when worn. Bulgari necklaces are not afraid to be big and bold, but this designer also knows how to work with simple elegance for statement earrings.

    Delfina Delettrez
Delfina Delettrez is a young designer who is a member of the Fendi family. Her jewellery designsfeature surrealist elements such as enameled pouting lips and heavily lashed eyes. Delettrez likes to be different, including wacky touches such as mounting diamonds upside down so their underbelly is on display. For those who like to be different, Delettrez is a designer to watch.

Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs has the knack of creating high-end street-savvy designs. His jewellery is both cutting edge and street sleek to appeal to a younger generation of fine jewellery fans. Jacobs has both costume jewellery and fine jewellery lines to his name, offering the option of entry level designer jewellery for the fashionista on a budget.

    Roberto Coin
This designer describes his jewellery as wearable art. Coin made his name, appropriately enough, working with 18k gold. He likes to celebrate this precious metal and works with a design to find the soul of the metal. Another signature element is a ruby, hidden in each piece as a message of love to the wearer.

Highly sought after, Gucci jewellery makes a woman feel good about herself. A favorite of celebrities, many Gucci designs feature the trademark double G symbol, which has become a byword for high-class style. Another great feature of Gucci is that it makes a wide range of accessories such as handbags, so for the woman who likes to coordinate, Gucci is a great option.

Last but certainly not least is that most extravagant of Italian designers, Buccellati. This jewellery is unashamedly extravagant and opulent, featuring an indulgence of precious gemstones to dazzle and delight. Original Buccellati rings and necklaces command high prices, and all the signs are that modern pieces command similar respect.

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