Being Mantastic…

Tomasz Domocik is the man who has created a revolution in the men’s jewellery segment. His designs are sleek, bold, intricate yet masculine. His arty personality and his love for travel depicts in his creations as they take you into a realm of mystery and innovation. Before establishing his brand, Tomasz had created numerous collections for international companies such as Garrard, De Beers and Links of London. Priyanka Desai meets with this young designer to know his success mantra.

One area of the male fashion scene that has seen a lot of buzz in the past five years, regardless of cultural persuasion isjewellery. It is particularly true in most parts of Europe where men’s jewellery was on the backseat in spite of world’s fashion capitals like Milan and Paris being located there. But, now the story is changing and men’s jewellery has become one of the most sought after segments. To study this burgeoning craze we travelled to United Kingdom to meet a designer who has created a revolution in men’s jewellery segment and has plans to take it on a higher pedestal with each passing year. Tomasz Domocik is first an artist and then a jewellery designer. He is young, unique and everything artful. Tomasz was born in Vienna in a family of economists but he chose to break a new path and follow his calling: art.

Tomasz’s designs are every man’s dream coming true. They are not overtly glittery and dainty but masculine, sleek and statement making. His use of varied material palate has made him win recognition in United Kingdom and other parts of Europe. His designs are adorned by celebrities and have sparkled the runways of top fashion weeks. His zeal of being unique shows through each piece that is never the same and his each collection is a promise for a brighter future in the men’s jewellery segment. When asked if he always aspired to become a jewellery designer, Tomasz replies, “I was always drawn to art. Back home in Vienna I painted and used to do silk screen painting, photography and installations. I wanted to pursue a career in art so at the age of 18, I was accepted to a foundation course at Central Saint Martins. In this course I tried different disciplines, from computer media, to textiles/ fashion, etc. Jewellery was a course that particularly appealed to me since it allowed me to draw, paint and do 3D work. In affect it combined all the disciplines I loved. I wanted to be able to design, make products and combine a variety of skills and materials. I’ve always loved art, from the classical paintings in Vienna to the stark structures of modern architecture in London. Jewellery design is a discipline that incorporates rich colours, three-dimensional forms and finely honed skills to create an incredible piece that will be treasured forever. I decided to pursue a career in jewellery and graduated first from Central Saint Martins with a BA hons degree and then from the Royal College of Art with a MA. My passion in fusing unconventional materials with gold and gems shows my diversity as an artist. Till today I always say I am a designer who specialises in jewellery. That probably explains why I create fine art jewellery pieces as well as fashion and accessory pieces. From catwalk to everyday wear, my design sensibility suits each walk of life.”

Sharing more about his journey and accolades in the jewellery industry, he states, “I have always pushed boundaries when it comes to the materials I use and the style I am trying to create. This was picked up on very early in my career after members of the industry observed my Chesterfield bangle and other modern jewels. I am always challenging myself in design and manufacturing as I believe one has to keep pushing one’s self to create something amazing. I have been awarded with numerous awards such as UK Designer of the Year, Hot 100, Jewellery Designer of the Year and recently got awarded by the Couture Show in Las Vegas for the Best New Designer and Best Piece in the diamond category. It’s great garnering achievements as they allow you to display your work to masses. I think it’s also a challenge. I like a bit of competition since it really pushes you to improve yourself.”

Creating such exhilarating pieces and being on the top of the game incessantly is no easy feat but Tomasz makes it look stress-free owing to his merry maker personality and immense confidence. But, we coaxed him into telling us about the most difficult aspect of jewellery design. After a thought, he explains, “I think the most difficult aspect of the jewellery creation process is satisfying myself. I am always trying new ideas and mixing different materials like precious stones with leather, etc. I am a perfectionist so even when I finish something I am already thinking of the next thing and how to enhance what I did. I love the process and I think if you stop striving to push boundaries the art you create might become repetitive. Since I use unconventional methods and materials in my jewellery I think the material properties sometimes give me difficulty. Take for example the chesterfield bangle; the leather needed to be thin enough but also strong enough to fold and stretch. At that scale it was something that needed perseverance.”

When asked about his learning from the industry and its role in shaping him as a designer and a businessman, pat comes the reply, “One of my skills is to design under a given brief for which every company approaches me.I learned this skill early on my career. I have made numerous collections for different brands, ranging from Garrard and De Beers to Links of London and others. Working for other companies allowed me learn from the industry in terms of consumer behaviour, production, execution, pricing, manufacturing andbranding. All these skills have proved useful now that I run my own business.”

These skills are also the reason why some of the most celebrated and richest names in the world have requested him to create customised pieces for them. When asked to share one of such experiences, he says, “One of the recent jewellery sets I have done was a gentleman’s suit. It consisted of a set of crocodile cufflinks, a crocodile ring and bracelet followed by four tuxedo pins. A client who loves hunting commissioned the suit and I was very much inspired by the masculine theme of a crocodile. It’s a fascinating reptile and I think as a form in jewellery it can be very colourful but at the same time very masculine. I was drawn to the textures of the scales, and the way the skin folded like chain male. I created a cufflink that sat around the sleeve emphasizing the lizard like body of a crocodile and studded the surface with cut to measure, green baguette emeralds. The scales between the stones I’ve left protruding above the stone tables, which in effect created an automatic shielding for the emeralds.”

He further added, “The process of designing began with a study of the animal and lots of sketches. These then were designed into jewellery and technical drawings. These were then carved into wax. I spent some time trying to figure out a mechanism for the cufflink and once I was satisfied I proceeded with the metal work/moulding, etc. Stones were cut to shape and final touches were added. I think it all lies in the details so the ruby eyes were also carved. The eyebrows were lowered over the stones giving the cufflink a more fierce expression. I wanted the mouth to be open therefore it was quite technical to get it all working. The inside of the belly was not forgotten. I carved the texture of a crocodile pattern inside the ring shank. I think that’s where it all came together.”

We wondered if Tomasz uses any ethnic jewellery-making techniques or are they mostly technology aided to create such intricate pieces. To clear out our confusion, he explains, “My jewellery is made in the United Kingdom and mostly by hand. Some pieces are cadded on 3D programmes, which I think is fascinating. In today’s world a jeweller has a vast playground of technology to aid his creations.”

The one thing that stands out in our conversations is his usage of unique material palate. We requested him to throw light on his favourite materials. “My material choice varies. My materials are chosen because of the design and not vice versa. My material never dictates my design. I love precious vibrant stones and colours. For example in the Four Element Collection, the theme is the four elements that are represented by mythological creatures. I picked the Phoenix bird for Fire and a garnet speccitite to communicate the fieriness of that element. Similarly with Medusa’s snake ring, I used the green tourmaline to emphasize Earth. Leather plays a huge part in my work. I think it’s fully accepted in the accessory world but in jewellery its still not considered as precious and elegant as I think it is.”

While discussing more about his designs and his ideal patrons, he describes the ideal type of men that adorn his creations. “I think my clients are confident, bold and like a bit of an edgy look. I think men are more and more becoming seduced by the idea of wearing jewellery. In different parts of the world jewellery for men is widely accepted but I think in Europe it’s still at the stage of growing. Wrap leather bracelets are always easy and stones like black diamonds on rose gold look sleek and stylish.”

Talking about his personal preference, he states, “For everyday jewellery I wear my silver studded leather wrap bracelets and a star ring with a long pendant over a loose T-shirt. But when I go out, I love to dress up. I love cufflinks so I find any excuse to put them on. I love stones and therefore I like my men’s jewellery to be dark but studded with precious stones. I think the clash of a dark look with vibrant colours is very attractive. It’s like a venomous viper snake and its colourful scales, beautiful yet aggressive.”

We put Tomasz in a fix when we ask him to tell us about a jewellery piece from some other designer that his favourite. After much deliberation, he states, “It is very hard to say but I have recently seen a brooch by Lorenz Baume. It is a bug of some sort and is absolutely amazing. The colours and the way that stones are used are magnificent. I think other great designers are Stephen Webster, SevanBecakci, Boucheron, to name a few. I love JAR too. I think as long as its exceptional and different it attracts me. I have seen an amazing green emerald watch in the Cheap Side Hoard Museum in London that is beautiful. It makes me want to do a watch.”

After an exciting talk about jewellery, we steer the conversation to know the personal side of this young designer. We inquire about his hobbies and he shares, “I enjoy snowboarding and anything to do with water sports. My hobbies would be cooking, interior design and furniture making. I love travelling and visiting new places in the world and I suppose that really stimulates my creative side.”

Talking about his family, he tells us, “My family has always been very important in my career and my achievements. My parents come from a totally different background. Both are economists therefore not in the slightest form creative but they always said they would support me throughout my education and if I wanted to pursue a career in art (jewellery) they would not prevent me from it. Only thing my dad always told me is that ‘make sure you are good at it! Work hard because you will eventually need to make a living out of it!’ I am very fortunate to have chosen a career that is also my passion.”

To conclude the intriguing interview, Tomasz gives a word of advice to aspiring designers. “Perseverance and dedication are the golden words here. Do not compromise on your creative visions. Extraordinary work is a combination of stubbornness, dedication, naivety and passion. Story telling is something that people like so create jewellery that also tells a story,” he signs off.