Trends: 2006/2007 What’s Selling and what’s Marginal

This year designers are using a lot of open spaces to create elegant diamond jewellery...
Trends: 2006/2007 What’s Selling and what’s Marginal

The fashion world is ever changing and never stable. Change is like an evolution and trends keep catching on as designs change and modify to suit the whims of people and cultures. Once a trend is born it’s adopted by everyone in their own way and the changes gain some permanence in the fashion industry. The designers whose designs are adopted and acceptable become trendsetters and decision makers that dictate the style and colors for the season. So, what’s brewing on the jewellery front for the coming year? Diamond World brings you the scoop on what’s in fashion this season…

The jewellery industry has undergone changes and today design is what sells. Through exhibitions and overseas exposure, manufacturers gauze trends and modify them to suit their consumers. An anklet abroad is a payal. In India, worn in both feet but today anklets have become a fashion statement and women are pairing them with skirts and caperys. The designs are a fusion of payal and Western anklet patterns combining the jingle and coins to make it suitable for Indian women.

So what is the trend this year and what’s happening in the international scenario? Here are few tips on what designs are going to make rounds this year and what elements are going to influence designs. It’s the design that sells and not the gemstone or metal or jewellery.

Diamonds Galore :
This year designers are using a lot of open spaces to create elegant diamond jewellery. It appears in a variety of motifs from simple diamond pave swirls to more intricate diamond pave lattice-work and diamond orbs. The most desirable designs feature either gold or platinum jewellery dusted with very fine diamond micro-pave to draw light and sparkle to these simple yet shapely designs.

Inspiration from Nature & Animals :
The trend this year is to draw inspiration from nature and animals. The world is in a state of chaos and at war. The unrest and disturbance has affected jewellery designs as well and people are looking for hope and peace everywhere. This year it’s white and lighter soft shades, pastel hues that will dominate the scenes. The contrast of black and white will work well too. The international scenes are abuzz with new trends and here are some elements inspiring designers to create.

Flowers go on Forever :
Flowers have been the muse of jewellery designers for ages. Floral designs have adorned women on many occasions and every woman loves to flaunt it too. The enduring floral design takes new shape in simple and modern designs in diamonds with or without colorful gemstone accents. Flowers rage from van Cleef, Arpels, feminine bloom rings to Stephen Webster’s gothic-style Rose pendants on the international ramps. While in India you will see floral inspiration in designs of Jewel Goldi (India), Gold Star Jewellery Pvt. Ltd, ISHNA, MAIA, etc.

Bubble of Fun :
A bubble of fun is another concept doing rounds in the west. Diamonds can seem whimsical when shown like playful bubbles cascading down the neckline and wrapped around the wrist. Clusters of diamonds circle and balls create the effect of a waterfall. The free flow of the sparkle catches attention of the admirer. The arrangement in seen in neckpieces that wrap around the neck and flow down to give the waterfall effect that’s highlighted with the sparkle of diamonds.

Icons from Nature :
Animal depiction is a concept which draws inspiration from animals and birds. Its about wildness and animals fused together to create a wonderful combination of style. Enduring jewellery icons from nature, such as butterflies, dragonflies and snakes, continue to enchant in new variations for 2007. The new animal images include ethereal, free-form diamond butterflies and retro style diamond- studded snakes that slither around the finger or wrist. These collections look sophisticated and elegant.

Colored Diamonds to take off :
The kind of diamonds that add sparkle to creations and the cuts that emit that radiance have been spotted this season. The colored diamonds have taken off and yet India is apprehensive about using them the concept of colored diamonds is new here and is still taking roots slowly and steadily. This year the sunny shades are to be watched out for. Colored diamonds in warm shades of brown, yellow and yellow-orange give diamond jewellery a sophisticated edge.

Rough Diamonds in Jewellery :
An emerging trend is rough diamonds, which appear like luminescent tumbled rocks. In contrast to the sparkle of a cut diamond, the rough diamond is a chic-expression for those in the-know, most people won’t realize it’s a diamond. Even De Beers is using un-cut, rough diamonds in their new designs.

Stars Returning :
Graphic, unadorned diamond jewellery and sleek black and white diamond creations represent modern design. A prime example is Daniel K’s Asscher-cut diamond earrings in a minimalist design, where the stone appears to float without any visible metal. Also the same concept is used by TBZ Original in their collection where the diamonds have a floating effect. The star is making a comeback with stylish new forms. H. Stern is also highlighting the star in subdued shades of brown gold with brown and black diamonds, as well as its new star-cut diamond.

Signature Cuts-Status Symbol :
The diamond cut is increasingly becoming an expression of individual style. Whether it’s the softer sheen of a rose-cut or the sleek style of an Asscher, women are selecting diamonds cut to express their individual style. Signature cuts are the new status symbols.

Variations on the emerald cut and Rose cut, can be seen particularly with the increasing exposure of Indian jewellery.

So after we decide on inspiration of the designer and the kind of diamonds that can bring out ones individuality it’s the type of design we turn to. What’s in vogue, what shapes, what sizes, danglers or hoops? Long lengths or chokers, flashy bold pieces or tiny subdued pendants? Here are answers to a few questions we want to know.

Y-Necklace the New Fashion :
Necklace: Necklaces are the boldest pieces in jewellery. All attention is concentrated on them as earrings and rings take a backseat unless really bold. This season it’s the versatile pendants on changeable silk or leather cords. The Y-necklace is the new fashion along with Long, open length diamond chains and Lacy, openwork collars. The all time popular diamond pendants on simple chains are still the best sellers. There are Long liner and circular diamonds, pendant necklaces and Layers of diamond chains and pendants that is dictating fashion. Disks of round diamonds, dog tag and other personalized talisman pendants are4 also doing well.

Rings: the Double ring, featuring two gemstones, large floral or leaf designs and Butterfly rings are the next big thing where designs for rings are concerned. Finely-detailed rings with intricate metal or pave details are a must have for wedding and celebrations since they are flavors this season. Indian influenced large rings with fine granulation work and diamonds work well where as Big-chunky rings with hanging droplets of diamonds are seeing a good clientele. Graphic diamond rings, including ringlets of pave diamonds and large open-work pave diamonds rings are going to dominate fashion scene in the coming year.

Bracelets Beckon You :
Bracelets: Bracelets are now in much demand in India. From the traditional bangles called kangans or chudi the trend is moving towards the intricately designed single bracelets. Large open-work cuff and bracelets with Curvaceous links in leaves and floral designs circling the wrist are becoming a favorite with the female folks all over. Finely-detailed bracelets and diamond bangles with diamond mesh-work are gaining ground fast and India is picking up the trend.

Brooches: They are essentially western ornamentation but we see small sari pins and small ornate ornaments which can be called brooches that the women in India use. Brooches are shaped in Butterfly patterns with elaborate floral designs’ or animal designs. Large open-work design brooches in abstract designs are in much demand today.

Earrings – Long & Linear :
Earrings: They are a must for every woman who loves jewellery and there are very few who don’t have. This season the earrings are long and linear. Drop earrings in all shapes and sizes are the most sought after. The designs display ornate, open-work for lighter effect and space. Tassels, Kite shaped earrings are trendy new shapes. Micro-pave creates a subtle sparkle for everyday elegance and new variations in the traditional hoop can be made through oval shapes, multi-hoops and swirls.

Rings – Ordinary & Bridal :
But this is the entire general trend. If its wedding bells for you, you need the bolder and all sparkle look that adorns your beauty and yet doesn’t overwhelm you. The most important this day is the ring that adorns your fingers and is a symbol of love. Rings this season for the bride range from sleek, modern designs to highly-ornate settings in steel and diamonds. The traditional prong-set engagement ring is taking a backseat to bezel-set diamonds, three-stone rings and finely-detailed settings, colored diamonds, particularly yellow centre stones and pink accents, have become mainstream.

Alternative Materials :
The things you should watch out for this month are the Bezel set diamonds and alternative materials such as steel, blackened metal and even rubber with diamonds. You can add touches of enamel for color. The Three stone rings, Yellow centre stones and finely detailed settings are in the spotlight. Mix of stone shapes, such as a round centre flanked by trapezoid-cut diamonds, Asscher cuts, Rose cuts, and old mine cuts create a subtle sparkle this season.

European Market Trends: In Europe this year the trend is empire style, heretical insignia and neo-classic. The Victorian bold look is going to be back on the scenes. Designers will draw inspiration from the history and bi-gone era. There will be Victorian and exclusively English heavy jewellery coming into the markets. ‘Bold’ is the key word for European markets the coming year.

Russian Trends: Russia is looking to the cultural and social scenes to draw inspirations. It’s the cultural; bridges that bind Russians together that’s going to provide inspiration to fashion as well. The folk styles, the aristocracy styles and graffiti along with spiritualism will dominate market trends. Designers will seek to portray classical styles fused with folk and culture which will add contemporary look to the jewellery.

Trends to Dominate India :
This is what’s going to happen internationally but what about India? Designers speak about the latest in India and what’s going to dominate trends in the coming year. India is evolving technologically and creativity is at its height. Designers predict what’s going to be Indian jewellery scenario in 2006-2007. The diamond trading company (DTC) has shortlist four trends for the season. It’s the “Circle of Hope”, “Timeless nature”, “Cultural Criss-cross”, “Pure Passion”. These four trends will dominate the jewellery scene in India and designers will draw inspiration from these themes for their creations. Our designers from the DTC panel speak about what will be dominant on Indian fashion vista and what we will see in their designs, what colors and what styles ?

Farah Khan :
Having years of experience behind her and celebrity clientele of who’s who, her brand Farah Khan, launched in 2004 has grown from one outlet to three outlets in a matter of a year. Her style is bold yet striking, romantic yet feminine and combines unusual colors combined with exotic gems and diamonds. Her recent collections were Amore, Forever, Tassels-handbags-lace-and Jamevar. She will soon launch her Fall Winter 06/07 collection titled Celestial where she will also unveil her man’s line of jewellery for the first time.

“We have interpreted the trends for India. The four trends which DTC is forecasting is our interpretation of the international trends for India. The color which will dominate the scenes is yellow. In diamonds its color white. The world has seen a lot of war and unrest and they want peace and peace is best denoted by color white so it’s white for the season.”

Gunjan Suri :
Part of the team that conceptualized De Beers Asmi, Gunjan has earned accolades from not just India, but also from diamond connoisseurs the world over. Her work reflects modernity and she aims to bring about a revolution in jewellery design.

Gold Coming Back :
“As far as gold is concerned yellow metal is coming back and there are hints of pink. White is going to stay in but with the infusion of yellow and pink it is going to be more popular. As far as diamonds are concerned a lot of earthy tones yellows and browns and muddy tones are going to bee seen. If you see the themes this year its bio, which is translated into timelessness of nature, so a lot of crudeness of nature has come in.

Culture criss-cross and timeless nature, if you see, is my favorite.”

Queenie Dodhy :
From being master mathematician to setting the ramp on fire and igniting her passion for jewellery designing, from being a style icon, to being a makeover Expert, and now also a columnist, Queenie has been a trendsetter. Acknowledging her sense of style and aesthetics, Queenie has exhibited her collections in USA, Mumbai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Dubai, Kuwait, Damascus, Chennai and Malaysia. Her exquisite designs adorn well-known faces in the film industry.

Accept Colored Diamonds :
“In diamonds I still think of whites; however a lot of brown diamonds are coming in. Yellow diamonds, I don’t know how they work in our country because from time immemorial we have thought of yellow diamonds as not being of good quality. It’s a mindset so we have to brainwash the Indian mentality to accept color diamonds. It may be very fashionable but there are few people who actually use color diamonds.

In terms of gold there is still white metal with diamonds that works, but there is a lot of yellow metal coming in. This is very exciting and interesting since you can make interesting pieces with rough gemstones and colored gemstones. I like the use of uncut diamonds and roughs. To me its exotic appeal and I love creating exotic pieces.”

Saba Ali Khan :
Saba was cut for a creative career. After a short stint at Lintas she decided to train as a jewellery designer and then designed initially with Shanti Vijay Jewellers. She then introduced her own brand named “Saba”. Her first jewellery exhibition held at New Delhi in 2000 was a resounding success. Since then Saba has never looked back She has done shows with Rosy’s exquisite creations and Naini’s jewellery designs. Saba works with a lot of color. Her designs are contemporary, fused with Indo-Western styles.

Yellow gold is in demand. It’s coming into fashion once again while white gold still stays on along with platinum. I prefer gemstones than diamonds but in diamonds white diamonds are definitely the in thing. I like working with uncut stones that add more color to jewellery.

Combination of Culture & Design :
“India has seen a lot of destruction so the theme this year will be hope and peace. White will be more in. Also since India is more of tradition, culture and history those elements will be seen more in jewellery trends when we adopt these trends from the West to Indian jewellery. So it’s going to be a nice combination of culture and designs. As far as gold is concerned it’s the yellow metal and white metal which will be seen more.”

Nature is the Contemporary Theme :
This year it’s going to be nature, the theme world over is bio and inspiration will be drawn from roots, gemstones, leaves, flowers, animals, earth color. So its yellow shaded diamonds and yellow gold for the season with uncut and crude gemstones to give the exotic appeal to jewellery. - Shweta Dharia

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