EGYPTIAN MAGIC

Her Middle Eastern heritage makes Doaa Mohsen one of the up and coming fine jewellery designers of today. Doaa talks about her Egyptian upbringing being an eternal source of inspiration, her love for opals and more with Vijetha Rangabashyam.

What makes Doaa Mohsen’s jewellery special is the effortless amalgamation of edginess and old world charm– each piece is so modern yet is steeped in heritage, that Doaa has imbued over the years through her Egyptian upbringing as well as her brush with different cultures during her travels. Her choice of gemstones is also extremely unique – she marries diamonds with ametrines, bicolour citrines, labradorites, brokites and more, making each jewel a masterpiece that is evocative of rich craftsmanship and eternal luxury. With a background in economics and psychology, Doaa later on moved to the UK to study gemology and design at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and focused on the business aspect of the jewellery industry at Central Saint Martins.

Where does your passion for jewellery stem from?
Growing up in Cairo, I was constantly surrounded by beautiful jewellery as it’s an important element in our culture. Women in Egypt buy jewellery the same way that they buy clothes; it’s a sort of a necessity. My passion for jewellery came from a life-long family jeweller who I would go to and ask to create bespoke pieces for me. I admired his artistry and craftsmanship so much.

When did you realize that you wanted to pursue a career in jewellery design?
Funnily enough, it came during a visit to this same family jeweller. I was looking for a specific type of pendant, but couldn’t find it anywhere. The design was just stuck in my head and no matter where I looked, I did not find anything remotely similar to what I was imagining. I finally decided to create it myself. I drew a rough sketch of it and asked my jeweller if he could make it. When he saw the design, he told me I have a rare talent and a keen eye and that I should explore it further.

Tell us about your prized possession when it comes to jewellery.
It’s my 18ct bicolour Sapphire; it was the first expensive stone I fell in love with after I finished my studies, and my husband bought it for me as a surprise for my birthday.

How would you define your label’s spirit?
Dalseen is eternal. Anyone who knows me understands that timelessness and uniqueness are the key factors, which I center my design process around.

Can you walk us through your latest collection?
I recently created the Roshan collection, which features beautiful diamondstudded pieces. It’s so easy to wear and is very versatile. I was inspired by the intricate latticework which you can see in traditional Arabic windows. I was fascinated by how the light delicately streams through and tried to reproduce this in the collection.

From a spark (idea) to how it becomes a finished piece of jewellery, can you explain your creative process?
Usually, it starts as a vague idea in my head, and sometimes weirdly enough, I dream it ! I start sketching on paper until it becomes clearer, then I send it to the workshop to have a 3D computer design to be approved, then the production process begins, where I check in on every stage until it’s complete.

What stones and metals do you love working with and why?
I love working with 18k gold and opals. You can imagine and craft so many different pieces with this combination.

How important do you think it is for a jewellery designer to be update with trends in terms of clothes, etc?
It’s important to be up to date with the fashion trends, however, I don’t base my designs on trends that will be outdated later on.

Who do you like seeing your jewellery on the most and why?
Elegant and classy modern women, because that’s what I want my jewellery to be known as; elegant, strong women who are not scared to express their femininity.

Where do you think fine jewellery stands in the market today?
I think fine jewellery is coming back strong. In the past it was associated with classic people, but now with newupcoming designers, this concept is changing.

What are some of the up and coming trends in jewellery?
I think women are a lot more confident with their jewellery nowadays. It has become a statement accessory in itself. Big, opulent pieces are making a come-back and women are no longer afraid to buy pieces for themselves and showcase them to the world.

In your experience of travelling, which country has been the most inspiring and why?
Travelling around the world inspired me a lot but my designs are still very influenced by my Middle Eastern background; I just tend to add an international twist to them.