Jewels for the Soul (Maria Kaltsidis, Creative Director, Maria Kovadi Fine Jewellery)

Early Days and Education
lot of what goes on in childhood influences how we turn out as adults and this exactly what happened with young Maria Kaltsidis, Creative Director of Maria Kovadi Fine Jewellery, and a well-known fine jewellery brand. Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood there, growing up in a family which enjoyed travelling and exploring new places. This instilled curiosity and passion, which Maria begun to express through art and later, jewellery. Her design signature is evident in timeless and sustainable creations, which reflect strong multicultural influences gained during travels and living in different countries.

This creative journey continued as she attended various art courses and learned about history of art. “Impressionism is very close to my heart as impressionists also tried to capture a certain moment. I was inspired to continue my creative path and decided to go and study in London, at Central Saint Martins,” says Maria.

Starting with a Foundation Course in Art and Design, she then continued with a BA in Jewellery Design. This enabled her to learn to design and create something very personal and her way of expression. Strong concept development ensured that behind every piece there must be a certain meaning, concept or idea.

Telling us more about her time while studying, Maria adds “Saint Martins was very much about the importance of the concept but in Italy I learned that jewellery can be both aesthetically pleasant to the eye and comfortable to wear. I was soon able to communicate and translate my thoughts and feelings in a manner that is closer to my perception of beauty and to connect Italian aesthetics with a part of the sole, creating something very personal.”

Then she went on to study at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) in London where she learnt about the magical world of gemstones. She received her General Gemologist Diploma and launched the brand in 2007, working with private clients as well as starting to develop other collections, which were unveiled at Baselworld several years later.

Inspirations
Talking about her inspirations, Maria says “All the life around me and my inner life inspire me. It can be a thought, an image, a painting, a book, a gemstone, somebody I meet, a place I visit, some exquisite technique, anything fascinating and moving. Inspiration is life in all its manifestations.” “The most difficult aspect of the jewellery creation process is putting the pencil to the paper. Inspiration then starts to flow and come alive through drawing and then physical designs,” she adds.

Jewellery Collections
The latest collections, Animali and Tell Me are very special. Both are very playful and exciting collections, featuring a combination of modern design and exquisite craftsmanship. They focus on bringing fun back into fine jewellery with both the designs and the story telling. Communicating through fine jewellery with the Tell Me collection is very exciting and means that a personal story may be created by every client, meaning that the jewellery will always hold a special place in their hearts.

Her YouVdiamonds collection is her favourite. Talking further on the collection, she says “The YouVdiamonds collection is a special one and took 6 years to develop and perfect. It was also one of my favourite collections to work on, especially the ‘Sweet Dreams’ piece, which is dedicated to my first son. The idea of using fluorescent diamonds came about during my studies at the GIA. It quickly became apparent that no one used this natural quality in diamonds to make a picture or part of the design and so I decided to make use of diamond fluorescence as part of a new collection. The idea of wings hidden in every YouVdiamonds creation relates to the notion of self-belief and self-growth. Believing in yourself and that everything is possible, suggesting that all people have hidden wings, to take them to any heights, if only they believe! The exclusivity of the YouVdiamonds creations is highlighted by a very difficult and time-consuming diamond sorting and precise pave setting process, which took a lot of time to develop and perfect.”

Wallace Chan and Cindy Chao have inspired Maria with their incredible natural forms and life-like fantastic pieces with amazing gemstones, stories and craftsmanship. She also loves JAR, Van Cleef and Arpels, Boghossian.

The Muse
Women inspire Maria. Ask her about her muse and she says “I don’t have a muse as such but more of a spirit of women. Many women can inspire. We are all unique and deserve to be muses in our own way. I like to see my jewellery on women who embody this spirit.”

Maria’s designs are timeless and allow the wearer to reflect their own meanings to their pieces. I asked her about what kind of woman would be ideal to wear her creations to which Maria answered “Intelligent, confident, strong but gentle, creative and free, with the soul that seeks expression through everything. A lady, who appreciates the beautiful things in life, knows her self-worth and is ready to express herself through fine jewellery.”

Personal Style
Maria likes to keep her jewellery minimal. Telling us more about her personal style of dressing and jewellery, she says “I like to dress elegantly and not chase the latest trends, choosing garments which are most suitable to my image and personality. My style also very much depends on my mood. Sometimes I like to wear something very simple that doesn’t stand out too much, where as other times I feel like really going for it, even though this only happens a few times a year. I like to keep my jewellery minimal, often wearing pieces associated with loved ones or special moments. I hope that the jewellery I create will also become a part of someone’s life and precious memories.”

The Maria Kovadi Brand
Every piece of Maria Kovadi brand is made with passion and exceptional craftsmanship. Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each creation showcases the designer’s passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully conveying the poetry of the designer’s vision.

All creations are very special and come made-to-order or in a limited edition, perfect for those wishing to highlight their individuality and distinctive thinking. Every jewel is carefully sourced and selected to fit the fairy-tale that is Maria Kovadi Fine Jewellery. The brand prides itself on achieving the highest levels of quality and innovation by working with the most outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the latest technology, combined with traditional skills.

Typical day at work is about…
A typical day is rather hectic as Maria has to juggle family life and running a business. She has three kids and she likes to dedicate a lot of time to them. On a normal day, she wakes up early and takes the kids to school. Then get back home and usually work as well as look after the baby. This allows her to spend quality time with her little one and ensure the business is attended to. She also works wherever she can, so a lot of work is done on the move - on planes, in the car, on business trips and any free moment actually.

Advice for the young aspiring designers
“Believe in yourself, be different and remain true to yourself. Find your way, your style, develop it and be true to it. Never give up,” says Maria.

Future Ahead
Maria has very recently introduced the brand to the Middle East market. “It’s very interesting to see how the jewellery is received in different countries and by different cultures, what works and what doesn’t,” says Maria.

“We also want to keep ensuring that with the growth of the brand, the personalisation and exclusivity aspects are not lost and the service is the same as for someone who is ordering a bespoke piece. We have, therefore, recently launched a concierge service which provides our customers with a unique opportunity to make use of the skill and expertise of our craftsmen and their studios, where every piece of jewellery can be made to order or customised. The concierge will ensure that our clients experience an individually tailored, effective and exclusive service, regardless of where they are in the world. Some of the best specialists in the field will ensure satisfaction of all consumer needs helping to create very special pieces for any occasion whilst embarking on a journey to create the jewels of your dreams,” she adds.

“It’s important for me to maintain exclusivity even during the brand’s growth, which is planned at a gradual but steady pace, ensuring the business is sustainable and continues to develop amongst unique designer brands. It’s important for me to continue to enjoy the design process alongside business management. Perhaps the next five years could see us opening a boutique in a very special place, which will embody the brand and its essence and continue to tell our stories,” concludes Maria.