See It To Believe IT!

Illusion Setting in Diamond Jewellery
See It To Believe IT!

One must remember that diamonds are not only beautiful but also expensive. So what if you want diamond jewellery but can’t afford due to cost involved. No worries, there is an ‘Illusion’ setting that would make your diamond look large than it actually is. Few jewellery experts share their insights about illusion setting with Kavita Parab.

Alkesh Shah: The trend of illusion setting mainly started post World War II when the pre-war opulence was looked down upon. Since then jewellery trends have seen major changes but some trends just come back in different ways. This one is a classic and as it enhances the size of the stone, has been evergreen and ever evolving.

Shanti Barmecha: Developed in France in the mid-1800s, the invisible or illusion setting effect is dazzling, as the light is free to emit greater radiance across unhindered stones.

Jitendra Jodhani: The concept/idea behind Illusion setting was just to give the customer more than what they demand looking all factors in mind such as design element, cost factor in short a unique product at unique price. Which we did in illusion setting as “SENTS & CARAT COLLECTION”, we have started Illusion setting in beginning of 2006.

Shailesh Sangani: Illusion setting has been around for a while. However, it keeps evolving to a better method.

Preferred Metals
Alkesh Shah: White gold or platinum are preferred though silver can also be used. The white metal helps create a good effect and if brilliantly polished, one cannot make out where the metal ends and diamond begins thus creating the apt illusion.

Shanti Barmecha: Gold and platinum are widely used for illusion setting.

Jitendra Jodhani: As we are dealing preferably in gold, no replacement with any other metal, Gold Plates with diamond facet cuts are used for this setting as to give the look of diamond. This metal plate can be used in any other precious metal but gold gives rich and decent look to the product.

Shailesh Sangani: The metal that is most common with Illusion setting is 18K and 14K gold and it is the most common for all diamond studded jewellery. The 18K gold’s characteristics are most suited to diamond studded jewellery.

Types of prongs used
Alkesh Shah: Mostly Nick setting or micro prongs are used.

Shanti Barmecha: No prongs are used but grooving of the stones is done. Recently, different types of micro/micro pave have been added to the process.

Jitendra Jodhani: Normal Prongs are used which we use for regular settings as the demand of the customer is more for regular prongs, whereas we have experimented and tried out this setting in many other types of prongs.

Shailesh Sangani: It all depends on the type of illusion, it could micro or tiger prongs. If they are grooved diamonds, there could also be a channel or bezel setting involved.


Alkesh Shah: Today even the common man holds pride in owning a diamond and bigger sizes are highly desired for lower costs. An illusion setting helps enhance the look of the size of the diamond while the cost is not affected. So, it’s great value for money. It is used in small every-day wear to engagement bands and trending towards big necklaces now. It is mostly used in fashion and traditional jewellery.

Shanti Barmecha: It is not limited to a particular jewellery trend. All trends, including small or big motifs use illusion setting. These days, it is also used while crafting a fashion or wedding jewellery collection. The trend is used in both, traditional and contemporary jewellery. As this trend is more price-attractive, contemporary jewellery uses it more often.

Jitendra Jodhani: It suits all trends. We are using this setting largely in fusion, contemporary and all other regulars. It is used in contemporary as well in traditional. We are specialised to use this setting in all kinds of jewellery. And for Indian Market the traditional and contemporary is used more so we develop the designs accordingly. We are the largest holder of this collection.

Shailesh Sangani: Due to increasing diamond and gold rates, illusion setting has become very popular once again. It is used in all the categories, necklace, rings and earrings. We have been using it largely in necklaces to achieve a broader look in a lower diamond weight. There is no such limitation for illusion setting. However, diamonds tend be used more in contemporary jewelry, so there is a natural correlation between the two.

Age preferences

Alkesh Shah: Different age-groups have different preferences. For eg: a teenager might love to wear a heart shaped illusion with little care about the value reflected. While gen- X woman would like it done in a more elegant manner and with bigger diamonds in-spite of the illusion so as to not just retain but enhance the value reflected.

Shanti Barmecha: Though it is not a new phenomenon, the illusion setting is loved more by the teenagers who like light and delicate jewellery as well as by the customers below the age-group of 40 years.

Jitendra Jodhani: There is neither an age limitation nor any age-wise choice. It’s all about the look and feel of the product. We have done lot of Research to cater all age group. We have developed many new designs as per the demand of various age-group in all different categories.

Shailesh Sangani: Yes, it is simple and classic style of diamond setting and it is appreciated by all.

The 4Cs

Alkesh Shah: Mostly round marquis and princess are used. Size could be anywhere from 200/ct to 10/ ct. and clarity from VVS to I2.

Shanti Barmecha: Smaller size till .05 points is more popular as far as illusion setting in concerned. Shapes could be princess and baguette cut diamonds and all colours from D to K , VVS to I3 in purity can be used.

Jitendra Jodhani: In terms of sizes we prefer -2 to 14 and in Pointer upto 0.20-carats. This setting is best for rounds, but we have developed it with other shapes also and for quality there is no limitation.

Shailesh Sangani: There are several illusions available in the market today, with round diamonds as well as with fancies like marquise and princess. Quality depends on the customer’s requirements; however it is better not to go too low on the quality, as it will not be able to provide the illusion of a single stone, if there are too many inclusions in the diamonds.

Future of illusion setting

Alkesh Shah: Possibly yes, the demand for illusion setting could go higher in next two years. The metal prices are on the rise and each one wants to own a diamond that looks big so as I mentioned earlier, the only way to strike a balance is to give them value for money and what better way than to offer more and more ways to create an illusion!

Shanti Barmecha: According to me, illusion setting is a fashion trend wherein economy does not play a big role. If a particular setting is trending then customers are sure to opt for it irrespective of economic conditions.

Jitendra Jodhani: No, we do not completely agree that illusion setting is in demand due to weaker economic conditions. This collection/setting is purely a budget-based. The products are sold for its unique look. In this concept, we have brought many variations and we always try to bring something new and innovative and we are well known for our design and quality on this setting. We are using these setting since 2006 and have witnessed a good response. In fact, a superb response and demand for the same in the market. In the coming two years, it is going to be the largest demanding collection.

Shailesh Sangani: As I mentioned earlier, as manufacturers we try our level best to provide the best look in a minimal budget and in order to do that we need to use methods like illusion setting. Especially, now when there is a slight lull in the market and people are not spending.

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