The New Jersey-based supplier, asserting itself as the largest wholesale provider of fine jewellery in the US, commenced its business relationship with Signet in 2007 or 2008, as per the November 6 filing with the US District Court for the Northern District of Ohio.

According to their contract, Unique Designs would conceptualize and present jewellery designs to Signet for approval. A portion of these designs was later manufactured by an overseas third-party supplier, an arrangement that Unique Designs terminated. Many items that Signet agreed to purchase were intended to feature artificial gemstones, as per the lawsuit.

In 2020, Signet raised concerns to Unique Designs about certain items failing laboratory tests. Unique Designs alleged that a limited sample of artificial stones was, in fact, made of glass rather than nanocrystals, contrary to the jewellery's advertised description. Signet decided to recall all items with such stones and refunded customers, providing $100 gift cards for future purchases.

Unique Designs contested this unilateral decision, stating that Signet's contract obligated them to either reject and return items or pay for the items sold. The supplier suggested a cost-effective solution would have been to replace affected items with nanocrystal gems at no charge, estimating a cost of around $200,000. However, Signet's refunds and gift cards amounted to approximately $1.6 million.

Despite Signet already owing more than $2.2 million to Unique Designs, the retailer offset this amount by $1.6 million, leaving an outstanding balance of nearly $600,000. Unique Designs is pursuing legal action against Signet, citing multiple breaches of contract, unjust enrichment, conversion of personal property, and fraud, seeking payment of nearly $2.3 million.