Bonhams presents the anticipated New York Jewelry sale on December 4. The 230-lot sale features arguably one of the most enduring design legacies from Chanel, an exceptionally rare 1930s Chanel gem-set and enamel ‘Maltese cross’ cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel, originally owned by the "First Lady of American Theatre," actress Helen Hayes MacArthur (1900 –1993). The cuff is coming to market for the first time, having remained in the same family the entire time and has an estimate of US$125,000-225,000.
Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams Director and Head of Jewelry, New York, commented: “The forthcoming New York Jewelry sale has some impressive blue, pink and white diamonds together with an exceptional collection of coloured gemstones and natural pearls. But the star of the sale is the rare 1930s Chanel gem-set and enamel ‘Maltese cross’ cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel. The cuff was formerly owned by American actress Helen Hayes MacArthur whose husband purchased it in the 1930s. It is an honour to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time.”
Chanel has long been recognized as the name behind the world’s most coveted style, having created some of the most iconic and elegant fashion statements. Gabrielle Chanel (1883 -1971) was pivotal in modernising how women wore jewellery. Chanel’s belief of mixing fine jewels with costume pieces is a style channelled today and one that is evident in the V&A’s Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto exhibition, which features a room dedicated to jewellery where examples of Verdura’s designs for Chanel are on display.
The historical gem-set and enamel ‘Maltese cross’ cuff heading to auction, is silver with a layer of ivory enamel and features a gem-encrusted ‘Maltese cross’ set with a variety of stones including a sugarloaf amethyst, cabochon emeralds, and multiple round and oval-cut sapphires, diamonds, and rubies. Very few of the cuffs were made and this rare jewel is in amazing condition, presented in its original box. Chanel herself was renowned for wearing a matching pair of cuffs like the one heading to auction.
The cuff was designed by influential Italian jeweller Fulco Santostefano della Cerda, Duke of Verdura and Marquis of Murata la Cerda (1898-1978) for Chanel in the 1930s, not long after he started working for Chanel. Having been introduced in 1925, Chanel went on to hire Verdura as a textile designer in 1927. Soon after she recognized his talent as a jewellery designer, after he altered the settings of jewellery she had been given by ex-lovers. The result was an influential collaboration that modernised and invigorated the world of jewellery but also the bold and stylish ‘Maltese cross’ design. Verdura went on to become head designer of Chanel jewellery for eight years before opening his own jewellery salon in New York in 1939. By 1937, Chanel boutiques were selling versions of the cuff and it was billed on both sides of the Atlantic with Harper’s Bazaar writing approvingly of the look, describing the cuffs as the ‘accessory choice for every outfit.’ The design today, is considered the hallmark of the Verdura brand, and Chanel boutiques continue to sell costume jewellery versions.
The incredible gem-set and enamel ‘Maltese cross’ cuff being sold in the New York Jewelry sale on December 4, was originally owned by the actress and philanthropist Helen Hayes MacArthur, who had an impressive 82-year career in Hollywood. She began her stage career at an early age with her talking film debut winning her the Academy Award for Best Actress. Hayes went on to have a glittering career, becoming the first woman to gain EGOT status having won an Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, and Tony Award. Hayes was also recognized with additional awards during her career. In 1968, she was presented with the Philadelphia Art Alliance’s Award of Merit in recognition of outstanding creative work of high artistic merit and has a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. She is also featured in the American Theatre Hall of Fame.
Other notable New York Jewellery highlights include:
A three-stone fancy intense blue diamond ring of 1.22 carats fancy intense blue colour, VSI clarity, 0.35 carats fancy blue colour, VS2 clarity, and 0.53 fancy intense blue colour of VS2 clarity. Offered with an estimate of US$300,000-500,000.
A fancy yellow diamond and diamond necklace, internally flawless clarity, weighing 17.04 carats. Offered with an estimate of US$220,000-320,000.
A fancy light blue diamond ring of cushion-cut, of VSI clarity, weighing 3.01 carats, accented by a setting of round brilliant-cut diamonds. Offered with an estimate of US$200,000-300,000.
A fancy brownish red diamond ring of cushion-cut, weighing 1.30 carats, flanked by oval-shaped diamonds. Offered with an estimate of US$200,000-300,000.
A fancy pink diamond ring of cushion-cut, weighing 2.03 carats of VSI clarity, accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds of colorless and pink tint. Offered with an estimate of US$160,000-220,000.
A loose Kashmir sapphire of cushion-cut, weighing 3.91 carats. Offered with an estimate of US$120,000-220,000.
A loose cushion-cut sapphire of Burmese origin, weighing 11.87 carats. Offered with an estimate of US$120,000-220,000.