In art, mastering color means expanding beyond the monochromatic. Especially when the paintbrush is actually a rare mineral, there are constraints to be considered. And from that consideration stems art. For instance, the gems surrounding the movement on the flange have specific requirements. They're to be longer and thinner so as to fit into the inner ring that connects case and movement.
Since it was impossible to maintain color intensity with yellow diamonds of those dimensions, Jacob & Co. used one of its favorite gems, one that has now become a signature of the brand's highest-end creations : tsavorite. This rare green garnet provides Billionaire Timeless Treasure with extra life, extra relief and unrivaled gem composition. 76 of them have been selected, emerald-cut and kite-cut, to surround calibre JCAM39. The skeleton movement Jacob & Co. uses in all its Billionaires is regulated by a tourbillon so thin, so fine it might go unnoticed at first sight.
The nature of all Billionaires is to combine the demands of high jewelry with those of high watchmaking. Which is why the extremely fine skeleton is enhanced with 57 baguette-cut yellow diamonds.
A legacy of astonishment
Launched in 2015 as a unique piece, Billionaire, first of the name, was an unheard-of timepiece. Created as a bespoke project, it had taken several years to craft. Finding, sorting, cutting, prepping its 239 emerald-cut diamonds was an enterprise of incredible proportions, as was its price of USD 18 million. Setting them on the case, crown and bracelet in an array so tight they became sheer light set Jacob & Co. in a class of its own. Its signature skeleton tourbillon movement of extremely fine proportions gave it a special place at the very top of the watchmaking foodchain. Billionaire garnered immense international esteem, prompting Jacob & Co. to make a second unique piece.
With 424 diamonds totaling 161 ct, Billionaire II took the initial concept even further by showing Jacob & Co.'s unique expertise in selecting and telling a story with gem-setting language. Its movement ended up under a particular spotlight as its filigree structure was set with 57 baguette-cut diamonds, another unprecedented feat. This paved the way for Billionaire III, whose 714 white baguette-cut diamonds gave way to a limited edition of 18 pieces. Billionaire III Diamonds and Rubies opened yet another door in the collection's repertoire with a flange, movement and crown set with a total of 134 rubies. This unique piece introduced a hint of color in the hugely successful series.
Jacob & Co. then explored the vast possibilities offered by the most prestigious cuts available. In 2021, Billionaire Ashoka introduced the esoteric namesake cut to a wide audience, which discovered how demanding this cut actually is, the larger size of diamonds it requires and the incredible light it emits. After this unique piece, Jacob & Co. created the Billionaire Ashoka Smaller, a limited edition of 18 with a more diminutive case and bracelet, 480 Ashoka-cut diamonds for a total of over 100 ct.
One of the particularities of all the Billionaires is the cream-of the crop quality of the diamonds Jacob & Co. has been using from day one. All of them, in all Billionaire models, are white, IF-VVS/G+ and without fluorescence. Finding more than 2000 such gems was yet another accomplishment of immense proportions. All the more so as they are large, always baguette-cut, emerald-cut or Ashoka-cut, all of which demand larger roughs to begin with.