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How Color in Jewellery Earned Credentials & Popularity
Top Designers Review the Fascinating Evolution
By: Diamond World News Service
Sep 15 2006 12:00AM
Reference: 587  


Color is the essence of life…it’s the sound, the taste, the smell, the soul of life, according to my perception.
Color has always been like a backbone to jewellery. Be it with the use of the color of metal, the colored gemstones, or the colored diamonds. Jewellery of the old times like Jewels of Nizam, Mughal jewellery- all were beautifully embellished with colored Mina Kari, red rubies, green emeralds etc.
Color always had its own place and importance. It somehow lost its value on the upward trend. Very surprising though, jewellery trend changed to minimalist color use and more of diamonds, two tone concepts, or Victorian jewellery.

Now with the increasing use of color again jewellery has got the look it always deserved, making it more playful, experimenting and full of life…. thanks to the colored gemstones industry that has developed immensely. Making gemstones available in such amazing varieties and colors, from aquamarine blues to peridot greens , from white and black diamonds to pink and yellows, from white and yellow gold to rose and blue gold.

I myself being a jewellery designer feel the use of color in jewellery has made it irresistible to the eye, affordable to the pocket and a must for the wardrobe. This has increased the dependence of clothes on jewellery, unlike before when jewellery was picked up according to the clothes to be worn, it’s the opposite today. This has also boosted the sale of jewellery because with every dress worn there’s needed matching jewellery. Gone is the time when jewellery was considered an investment, enhancing only the beauty of the cupboards, now it has come a long way from the stereotyped look to making an impressive fashion statement altogether.

Fashion Becomes Inseparable :
Fashion and jewellery today go hand in hand. As there’s color for every season, there’s a color stone for every season, and also there’s a new look for every season. Its color everywhere, and its here to stay.

I personally adored playing with 30-40 different varieties of colored stones in designs as there was huge creation level involved in it. As a designer/ creator it has been extremely satisfying to create 20,000-30,000 designs by mixing of various colored gemstones and creating varied jewellery range for all age groups and all types of classes.

General Misconception :
But at the same time, (3 years back) as I recollect, the general misconception of consumers was that they used to think that it is artificial jewellery. It was very difficult to overcome this mindset of the consumers. By means of extensive advertising we worked hard to create awareness about our product and tried to convince consumers that we are using natural colored gemstones in jewellery.
For decades before this consumers wore only traditional gold, kundan, meena and diamond jewellery and earnestly desired a change in the adornment segment. Slowly and gradually they found colored gemstone jewellery very attractive, different from the ordinary, colorful and absolutely fresh concept for the new era of jewellery creation other than the old traditional typed jewellery designs.

Confidence Building :
Consumers appreciated this new concept in jewellery very much but at the initial stage they were doubtful , reluctant to buy the jewellery because of factors like value of money, authenticity of colored gemstones, and 100 per cent confidence on the product was missing. Slowly and gradually they came to know about gemstones and colored stone jewellery started building confidence.

Colored Future Very Bright :
From where I can see, the future of colored gemstones jewellery is very bright as in western countries gemstones jewellery is most popular icon in jewellery industry. In our country and other developing countries we are following the trends of the western countries.
Previously there was no presentation of colored gemstones jewellery in an organized manner and nobody thought of doing the same in the right professional manner.
In Eros we have tried that colored gemstones, diamond jewellery should reach the consumers in a proper manner. We are getting success slowly and I see a real bright future in that. And other than that our effort will give great support to the entire gemstones industry in building Jaipur as the biggest production centre for colorful jewellery.
As ‘Karishma Kapoor’ said for Eros Jewellery, “It is affordable, it can be worn for any kind of occasion, it’s colorful, fashionable and natural.”
Colors in Vogue :
According to the Indian skin, taste of the people and variety of clothes, the popular gemstones will be Citrine, Blue Topaz, Multi Colored Tourmaline, Rhodolite, Garnet, Lemon Topaz; other variety of the colored stones would also become popular in the later stage, in my opinion.
At last, I strongly feel that colored gemstones jewellery can do wonders in this industry in coming years.

Designers are a restless fraternity, not content with one thing; they explore different mediums to exhibit their inner creativity. One important way to do that is to add color to their creation. Often an unexploited field, color in jewellery can be used to enhance the total look of the ornament.

Imagine Leonardo Da Vinci’s creation ‘Mona Lisa’ without colors; that is how dull the world of jewellery would be without colors. Color symbolizes all. It connects consumers to the design and makes it wearable art.
Generally when people talk about color, they assume color gemstones. When designing a jewellery piece every designer has his individual perspective, when adding color to his design.


Colored Diamonds
Pink, green, yellow and blue shades of diamonds have shown an increasing demand in the global market. Especially for the elite class who favor diamonds, colored diamonds offer more variety and add a distinctive touch to their ensemble.

Colored Metal
Jewellers have always been interested in Alchemy. After a fashion of white metal, now there is pink, red, green, and black gold in line. A combination of yellow, white and rose is in vogue.
Also, different techniques used especially in Europe are patination, electroplating, mokumegane, etc.

Colored Gemstone
The most common option used by designers to add color to their design is using colored gemstones. Pink tourmalines, peridots, citrines, blue topaz, all project different emotions.

Enamel has shown a grand return. Whether its champleve’, plique-a’-jour or cloisonne’, all have been adopted and converted into designs inspired by modern art, and gypsy garments. The cheapest way to add color is through enamel. Available in every color, and various shades, it can give both traditional and modern look. The use of cold enamel has made enamel technically easier to use.

Unconventional Material
To supplement main design, various materials are used to enhance and add vibrancy to the design. Such add-on products are colored ribbon, cord, leather, plastics and glass. Use of such alternative materials in contemporary jewellery gives designers the freedom to choose colors from unlimited sources.
Bright Future
Color will continue to make a strong presence in the global scenario. Consumers are looking for different colors to express their style. While designers create exciting juxtapositions combining various colors, cuts and materials, it’s very important that designers analyze impacts of various colors on their design. They should carefully evaluate the result of using a particular color, also they should decide on the technique, texture, and form which complements the design best. The need of the hour in Indian designing circuit is the lack of technical knowledge of designers and manufacturers.

They should know that there is a whole new world and prospective clients who welcome innovation.

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