Christie’s Geneva to offer Empress Eugenie’s brooch

Christie’s Geneva is offering the Empress Eugenie’s Feuilles de Groseillier brooch, which has not been seen at auction for over 125 years. The French Crown Jewels once constituted one of the largest jewellery collections in the world, but very few examples in original condition survived to this day. It is therefore extremely rare for a jewel of such historic importance to be offered for sale.

The Feuilles de Groseillier brooch, part of one of the most beautiful parures of the 19th century, was commissioned by Empress Eugenie to Bapst Jewellers in 1855. It is designed as a cluster of three openwork currant leaves centering upon a larger cushion-shaped diamond, suspending three detachable articulated pampilles, set throughout with old mine-cut diamonds. Of exquisite design, this jewel is a stunning example of the exceptional quality of the creations of Bapst Jewellers. This fabulous historic jewel is estimated at $2,000,000-3,000,000.

Eugénie de Montijo was a leader of European fashion and assembled a large collection of jewels, mostly commissioned from Bapst Jewellers, Court Goldsmiths for generations and safe keepers of the French Crown Jewels. Empress Eugenie favoured Alfred Bapst’s subtle creations, in particular his foliage designs suspending aiguillettes or pampilles of which the present brooch is an iconic example.

The Parure de Feuilles de Groseillier comprised a guirlande, worn as a necklace; a tour-de-corsage, worn directly on the dress and a devant-de-corsage brooch. In 1870, at the fall of the Second Empire, Empress Eugenie and her husband Napoleon III moved to England, leaving behind most of the Crown Jewels. 17 years later, the French government conducted a 12 day-auction, from May 12 – 23, 1887 where all the belongings of the French Royal Family were offered for sale, including the jewellery. Several of the larger pieces were broken up prior to the auction so the stones could be sold individually. The guirlande was sold as 8 parts of lot no. 11 and the present brooch was acquired by Tiffany & Co., who was the largest buyer at this legendary auction. A few decades later the Feuilles de Groseillier brooch was gifted by the Metropolitan Opera of New York to the famous opera singer Madame Lucrezia Bori (1887-1960). Madame Lucrezia Bori continued to work actively for the Metropolitan Opera until her death in 1960 and in her will, she bequeathed the brooch to the Metropolitan Opera where it has been exhibited since. The Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale is slated on November 11th.